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Southern Utah Move-Up Tools

Can I buy the next one before I sell this one?

The math behind the move-up. Run your current home, your target home, and your cash position. See the overlap gap, the strategies that close it, and whether the timing actually works for you.

Overlap cash flow HELOC vs bridge Post-sale picture Real verdict
Rates updated 2026-05-16
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Buy Before You Sell

Your numbers, both sides

Your Current Home

$

What you think it would sell for. A real valuation tightens this number.

$

From your most recent statement.

$

Just P&I, not the escrowed taxes or insurance.

$

Property tax (monthly), insurance, HOA, baseline utilities.

30 60 90 120

Cedar City currently averages 78 to 104 days. St. George varies by price point. Start at 60 and slide up for a stress test.

Your Next Home

$

Your buying range, not a wish.

%

Defaults to current. Override with your locked rate if you have one.

Down Payment
%

5% minimum conventional, 3.5% FHA. 20% avoids PMI.

$

Exact dollar amount you plan to put down.

$

Auto-calculated. Edit if you have a locked quote.

$

Property tax, insurance, HOA, utilities on the new home.

Your Cash & Liquidity

This is the section that decides it. The math on the homes is straightforward. The variable that makes or breaks a buy-before-you-sell is how much cash you can move without selling first.

$

Liquid cash, not from current home equity. Savings, checking, money market.

$

Investments or assets you’d use temporarily and replenish at sale.

Do you have a HELOC on your current home?

If you don’t have one, you generally can’t open one once your home is listed. Worth knowing before you list.

$

The unused portion of your line that you could draw on right now.

Once the Current Home Sells

The post-sale picture

The overlap is temporary. Here’s what your position looks like once the current home closes and the dust settles.

Net proceeds from sale
$0

Sale price minus payoff minus estimated selling costs (commission, title, escrow, prorations).

HELOC payoff (if used)
$0

Any HELOC balance drawn during the overlap gets paid off from sale proceeds at closing.

Cash left after replenishing reserves
$0

Sale proceeds minus HELOC payoff minus the cash you used during the overlap. This is what hits your account once the second closing wraps.

Your new monthly housing cost
$0

Next home P&I plus carrying costs. The old payment is gone. This is what you actually live with.

Three Ways to Close the Gap

Bridge strategy comparison

If your cash on hand doesn’t cover the overlap, these are the three tools that do. Each has tradeoffs. The card with the blue ring is the best fit for your numbers.

Option 1
Best Fit

HELOC on Current Home

Tap your current home’s equity through a line of credit. Cheapest option, but you have to set it up before listing.

Estimated rate 8.50%
Monthly cost during overlap $0
Total cost over overlap $0
Best when: Current home has 20%+ equity, your credit is solid, and you can open the line before listing.
Option 2
Best Fit

Bridge Loan

Short-term loan against current home equity, designed for this exact gap. Costs more than a HELOC, harder to qualify for, but works after listing.

Estimated rate 10.75%
Monthly cost during overlap $0
Origination + total cost $0
Best when: You don’t have a HELOC, you need to move fast, and you have strong equity and income to qualify.
Option 3
Best Fit

Recast or Delayed Financing

Put a lot of cash down up front, then pull it back out via cash-out refi or recast after your current home sells.

Refi rate spread +0.625%
Monthly cost during overlap $0
Refi closing cost estimate $0
Best when: You have enough cash to close strong, and current rates are tolerable enough that a refi later isn’t painful.
All three have qualification requirements. Bridge loans in particular look at debt-to-income with both mortgages counted. HELOCs check combined loan-to-value. Delayed financing has Fannie Mae timing rules. Talk to a lender before assuming any of these are available.
The Agent Angle

The strategy depends on your actual home value, not your estimate.

The math above is one piece. The other piece is timing your current home’s listing to support this strategy. That’s where having me as your listing agent on the sale side coordinates with the mortgage process on the purchase side. I can’t be your buyer’s agent if I’m your lender, but I bring in a trusted referral partner so the whole timeline holds together.

The Mechanics

How buying before selling actually moves.

The math is the easy part. The choreography is the part that breaks down most often. Here’s what each piece does.

The Overlap Window

The number of days you own both homes. Starts the day you close on the new one. Ends the day you close on the sale of the current one. Every day in between, you’re carrying both mortgages and both sets of carrying costs. Pricing the current home aggressively shortens this window.

Cash vs Equity

Equity in your current home is real, but it’s not available until you sell. The bridge strategies all exist to convert some of that equity into temporary cash. Cash on hand is the cheapest source. HELOCs are next. Bridge loans are the most expensive. Plan around the cheapest source you can qualify for.

Qualifying for Two Mortgages

Lenders look at debt-to-income with both mortgages counted unless you have a signed lease or a fully executed sale contract on the current home. This is the hidden gatekeeper. Even if your cash position is fine, your DTI has to clear. We sort this out in pre-approval before you start touring the next home.

Why the Listing Strategy Matters

A buy-before-you-sell falls apart when the current home sits. Days on market drives every other number in this calculator. Pricing right out of the gate, photos that actually pull buyers, and timing the launch (Cedar City spring market, St. George shoulder seasons) is where the listing agent earns the commission. That’s the side I quarterback.

The Contingent Alternative

If the math says “sell first or wait,” that doesn’t mean you’re stuck. A contingent contract on the new home (subject to your current home selling) is the middle path. Less common in a competitive market, but possible. The other option is a rent-back agreement after you sell, giving you 30 to 60 days to close on the next one.

Cedar City and St. George Specifics

Days on market in Iron and Washington counties run longer than the Wasatch Front. Plan for a 60 to 90 day overlap, not the 21 days you saw a few years ago. Cedar City spring (March through May) and St. George shoulder seasons move faster than midsummer or December. Time the listing to the market, not just to when you find the next home.

Under the Hood

Rate and fee assumptions

Purchase rate
Current Southern Utah conventional 30-year fixed average. You can override on input.
HELOC rate
Variable, typically tied to Prime. Estimate only. Lock rate options exist with some lenders.
Bridge loan rate
Short-term, typically Prime plus 2 to 3 percent. Origination fees of 1.5 to 3 percent at closing also assumed.
Cash-out refi spread
Cash-out refinance rates run higher than purchase rates. Added spread is built into the recast strategy.
Closing costs
Estimated buyer-side closing as a percent of purchase price. Includes lender fees, title, escrow, appraisal, and prepaids.
Selling costs
Total seller-side costs on the current home sale. For a detailed line-by-line breakdown, see the seller net sheet calculator.
Common Questions

Buy before you sell FAQ

Can I really buy a new home before selling my current one in Southern Utah?
Yes, in many cases. Whether it’s the right move depends on three things: how much equity is locked in your current home, how much cash you have outside that equity, and how comfortable you are carrying two mortgage payments for the overlap window (typically 30 to 120 days in Cedar City and St. George). Buyers with strong cash reserves and 20 percent or more equity in their current home have the most options. Those with thinner reserves can still do it with a HELOC opened before listing, a bridge loan, or a delayed financing strategy. The calculator above shows which path fits your numbers.
What is a bridge loan and how is it different from a HELOC?
A bridge loan is a short-term loan (typically 6 to 12 months) secured by your current home’s equity, designed specifically to fund the down payment on a new home while you’re waiting for the current one to sell. A HELOC is a line of credit also secured by your current home’s equity, but it’s a longer-term product, usually with a lower rate, and you only pay interest on what you draw. The catch with HELOCs: most lenders will not let you open a new HELOC once your current home is listed for sale. So you have to set it up before listing. Bridge loans can be set up after listing, but they’re more expensive (often Prime plus 2 to 3 percent) and harder to qualify for. The right tool depends on your timing and credit profile.
How long does it take to sell a home in Cedar City or St. George right now?
Days on market shift with the season and the price point. As of mid-2025, Cedar City was averaging around 78 to 104 days on market with a 96 percent sale-to-list ratio according to Iron County MLS data. St. George moves a bit faster on average for entry-level price points and slower in the $1M+ ranges. The calculator defaults to a 60-day overlap, which is a realistic median for a well-priced, well-marketed home in 2026. Adjust the slider up to 120 days for a more conservative scenario.
What is delayed financing or a cash-out refinance recast?
Delayed financing is an option for buyers who can pay cash for the new home (or put a large down payment down using temporary liquid assets), then refinance shortly after closing to pull that cash back out. Fannie Mae allows a cash-out refinance up to the original purchase price within the first 6 months of closing, as long as you document the source of funds. The advantage: you close with the negotiating power of a cash buyer (or near-cash with a huge down payment), then restore your liquidity once your current home sells. The downside: cash-out refi rates run higher than purchase rates, and the strategy only works if you have the cash to deploy upfront.
Can Scott Buehler be both my listing agent and my mortgage lender on this transaction?
Yes, on different sides of the deal. I am the listing agent on the sale of your current home and the mortgage lender on the purchase of your next home. I cannot serve as both buyer’s agent and lender on the same transaction (regulatory rules around dual compensation), but I can quarterback the entire move by listing your home, lending on the new one, and bringing in a trusted referred buyer’s agent to handle the purchase representation. The coordination across sale and purchase is what keeps the timeline tight.
What happens if my current home doesn’t sell during the overlap window?
This is the scenario you plan for, not the one you hope for. If the sale takes longer than expected, your overlap costs grow (extra months of two mortgages plus carrying costs), and any HELOC or bridge loan accrues more interest. The calculator’s verdict accounts for this by stress-testing your cash position against the days-on-market slider. If your numbers only work at 30 days and break at 90, that’s a warning sign. The fix is either price the current home more aggressively from day one, build more cash reserves before listing, or sell first with a rent-back or contingent offer on the new home.
Scott Buehler, Southern Utah REALTOR and mortgage lender

Listing & Lending in Southern Utah

The next step

A calculator gives you the math.
A real number gives you a plan.

Tell me about your current home. I’ll send a tight pricing range, run a real overlap analysis on your specific situation, and walk through which bridge strategy actually fits. No pressure, no obligation.

Cash Position
$0
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